Hiking the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) Northbound in 2013- sharing my preparation for the hike and my day to day experience while I'm on the trail. Inspiring people to follow their dreams.
Being at Doc Campbell’s was a great milestone of my trip as I knew that if I made it there that I was making good progress to make it across New Mexico and my eventual goal of Canada. At Docs I got my resupply box that my sister had prepared for me with little surprises of good chocolates and notes from home that were welcomed motivation to keep going. Knowing that people back home are supportive of my hike really keeps me going and the positive encouragement helps you stay connected to home. After staying the night in the campgrounds to soak in the local hot springs which loosened my aching muscles we did the road walk up to the Gila Cliff Dwellings Visitor center and took the time to check out the site. You can’t walk this far and just pass up a piece of local history that is only an extra 2 mile road walk away. The dwellings were amazing, snuggled up on the rock facing south with the light hitting the interior of the caves. The Mogollon’s are ancestors of the ancient Puebloen people of the southwest were in this area over 700 years ago. The caves at Gila are considered to be everything from ceremonial sites, permanent dwellings to only seasonal residence. The caves are amazing and you can feel the history when your inside with the petroglyphs, the dark ceiling from the fires and the intricate construction of the homes that once stood there. This is our American heritage and being there and walking in the same area that they once considered sacred was an honor. After visiting the dwellings I took a alternate route towards the Middle Fork of the Gila River, coming out of a slot canyon to its wonderful high walls and its beautiful flowing river. The river is amazing and I couldn’t wait to start getting my feet wet with its endless river crossings.
After repacking my backpack just in case I fell in while making a crossing I put my sleeping bag, clothes and electronics in protective cases and just a plain old garbage bag. I started the winding trail through the Gila, crossing from dry trail to dry trail, crossing the river with different depths where only my feet got wet to water up to my waist. Having your feet and legs constantly wet was a nice change from the hot and sandy desert. Dealing with wet feet all day brought new challenges of loose skin on my feet, more rocks in my shoes and trying to dry my socks and feet at night to prevent even more blisters. I only got 1 new blister because of the Gila which was good for me.
I slowed down my pace through the Gila’s as it was one of the places I was really looking forward to during my CDT trip. During one of these day dreaming episodes I was abruptly stopped in my tracks by a loud rattling sound. Oh crap, I had almost just stepped on a black tipped rattle snake! As soon as I heard the rattle I stopped, looked down and ran back really quick. I hate snakes. I don’t like them and honestly would have been happy as hell if I didn’t see one the entire time I was in New Mexico. After running away, I made my way back a little closer to see the coiled up body of a huge rattle snake with its head sprung back, tongue out tasting the air and ready to strike. I moved in closer to get some pictures and every time I did it rattled louder and louder. If you’ve never heard a rattle snake before, trust me, you will know one is around because it is loud. Cowboys and others in the southwest call them the “gentleman of the desert’ because of these rattles. After about 15 minutes of picture taking, me checking my shorts and stepping back the snake slithered into the rocks below but not before giving me one last rattle to let me know who was in charge out here. I gave it another 10 minutes before I ran across the trail where it had been, hoping it wouldn’t jump out and bite me. I was glad that experience happened without me being bit and me not needing to change my shorts.
Holy Sh*t!!
The rest of the Gila went great with its high cliff walls, winding river and beautiful cool temperatures and all the water I could drink. In all I did 147 river crossings before hitting the end of the trail and getting back into the open valley’s ahead.
After the Gila’s we entered into the open plains again and towards higher mountains that rises above the valley floor, following new CDT trail and forest roads towards the highway that takes you to Reserve. The water situation was tougher in this section because we had to take water from springs that were surrounded with cow pies and other nasty stuff making me miss the Gila even more then I already was. Passing through burn area that had used blazes like you see on the AT for trail markers made it very difficult to navigate through. The blazes were chopped into the tree but, of course this was burned as well and blended with the rest of the tree. Losing the trail here was easy to do and took me extra time to make it through the section down to the highway. Once down at the highway I made a failed attempt to hitch to Reserve to surrender to my craving for town food. After 3 hrs of attempting to get a ride, I gave up and slept in the tree’s eating my sad rice and tuna dinner versus the big steak I had been envisioning for days.
The next morning I got up and headed into the Apache Forest on my way to Pie town and the famed Toaster house I had heard so much about. I had been following the Ley route the entire way but, heard the official route was new and nice so I decided to go that way. After about 3 hours of constant winding around the hills I got frustrated and bushwacked back to Ley’s route and continued from there. The official route is nice, don’t get me wrong but thru hikers don’t want to take the scenic route, we just want to get there already. So after summiting Mangas Mountain and coming back down the other side I made a push to make it into Pie town before the Cafe would close. That morning I decided to hike the 30.5 miles to the Toaster House, which would be my longest day of hiking ever. The trail was good and the roads were easy to follow but the road just kept going on and on and on with no end in site. After making my last left turn and knowing I only 5 more miles to go I made the final push in the dark to make it to the Toaster house at 9:30 pm. I was greeted by 2 CDT bikers and a fridge full of Tostinos pizzas which I ate 2 of, drank about a gallon of water and crashed in one of the beds. The Toaster house is an amazing place and Nita is a wonderful women who leaves it open for all weary travelers to enjoy. The pie is amazing, the people are colorful and welcoming. The Toaster house is truly like a CDT hall of fame and I only wished the walls could talk….
Anybody that has hiked the CDT since 2002 has more than likely had in their hands a map created by Jonathan Ley. He is the man who has brought the mystery of the CDT to life, with his wonderful maps that he provides for free to any dreamer or thru hiker who requests them. Those in the hiking world have heard his name before, but few have ever met him. I’ve already spent hours, if not days, looking at his maps in preparation for my hike, so I wanted to learn more about the man whose maps would guide me across this country on the Divide.
Jonathan Ley grew up in the suburbs of Chicago, getting very little exposure to the outdoors except for the daylong drives to a place that you could consider “wild”. It wasn’t until he moved to Seattle that he started getting exposed to the mountains and public lands that surround the area. This was when he first started falling in love with the outdoors and the world that it opened up. After working a job that wasn’t exactly fulfilling his needs, he decided on a whim to hike the PCT in 1999, even though he had very little hiking experience under his belt just yet. He learned a lot on the PCT by “trial and error” and felt that the trail was not something he wanted to do, but had to do.
After completing the PCT he spent the next year just hanging out around Seattle until a couple of friends suggested to him that he should hike the CDT with them. The other friends ended up bailing for one reason or another but he decided to go ahead and hike the trail, anyway. It was during this time that he started mapping out the trail that we now have available to us. The CDT was an amazing experience for him. When asked how the CDT compares to the PCT he says “I just felt it was ’more‘… more miles, more spectacular stuff, more boring stuff, more roads, more flat, more steep, more extreme weather… the PCT was very consistent, but the CDT varied quite a lot”. He learned a lot on the trail, and had no real huge problems other then a wrong turn here or there and a lost camera during a hitch in New Mexico. A few of his favorite sections were Glacier, The Winds, Southern San Juan’s, Gila River and the nameless sections in ID/MT, as well as some warm night hikes in New Mexico. A few of his favorite trail towns include Grand Lake CO, Dubious WY, Ghost Ranch, NM, Silver City, NM, East Glacier, MT and Leodore, ID. When he gets to town he goes for the usual hiker’s grub: pizza, beer and ice cream, even though he wishes he could say fresh fruit and salad.
When he compares the trail today vs. then, he feels that the trail is more known to the locals and there are many more hikers on the trail today than ever before. As has often been said, no two people hike the same trail. This is as true today as ever, with more segments of actual trail existing vs. having to go cross-country. It is up to you to decide which way you want to go on the trail.
The Maps
When Jonathan first started producing the maps and sending them out he was getting only about a dozen or so people asking for them each year. As the number of hikers has increased each year, and the trail has become more well known, the number of requests has grown to 200-300 per year. He says he gets a good mix of people ordering the maps; everything from a 15-year-old kid, to a person going for his triple crowner. Everyone gets treated the same way regardless of what your desired use of the maps are and you can expect the same level of help as well. As the requests for the CDs has grown, so has people’s generosity. He hasn’t run the numbers but as he says “I might be lucky to be making minimum wage at this… but it’s fun and keeps me connected to the trail & hiking community”. He does get some strange requests from people who miss the point of the maps, such as those people who want to drive the trail or even bike it. The funniest requests are from people who think his site is about some software program called the CDT, leaving him messages on technical support for some really arcane coding questions.
He keeps the maps updated through the help of fellow hikers. In a typical year he will get around 10-20 people submitting updates of various details. There are usually 2-4 people who submit very detailed updates on the whole trail, which is great, but this can have it’s downsides. It can be difficult when he gets conflicting feedback which forces him to use his own judgment on what to change or what not to. Eventually he hopes that the maps will be like a big wiki-map, which the community updates and maintains. He doesn’t see the technology for that just yet. He does see the value of a single editor because there are so many notes and conflicting changes that it could turn into one big mess if not managed properly.
My mess organizing the maps
Bear Creek Maps, Updates and Best Practices
With the arrival of the Bear Creek maps created by Jerry Brown, you would think that there might be some competition going on, but, as Jonathan says “I’m glad they’re out there. My philosophy is that the best thing for the CDT is more hikers -some of whom later become great advocates for the trail. Footsteps are the lifeblood of the trail, and it will only die from a lack of them. So, if people are able to have a great time using the Bear Creek maps, then great”. He sees the maps complimenting each other. The Bear Creek maps only follow the designated route, whereas his maps offer many different options which hikers can follow, to change things up. I appreciate the alternative routes, such as starting from Columbus, which is where I will be starting. Also, as anyone who has read the maps knows, he likes to add some “personal flourishes” in the notes, giving people a couple of perspectives to choose from.
When asked what’s new for 2013 he adds “quite a bit of small stuff that all adds up to a lot”. Sections in Montana that hadn’t been updated for years saw a lot of new updated notes in 2013. Also he’s been trying to update the source of the USGS scans from the previous old versions to the newer ones. They’ve stopped publishing the traditional maps, so now they’re only available in digital format today.
A best practice for his maps can be summed up as “STAY FOUND.” It’s not only the best two words of advice that he’s ever heard but also the title of the book that he recommends hikers read. He says, “You should always know where you are on the maps.” He suggests you navigate “to the next landmark or what’s happening in the next mile or so to the next stream crossing, trail junction, ridgeline… and when you get there, pick out the next landmark. This way, you greatly reduce your chances of getting misplaced.”
GPS, what makes a successful thru hiker and the future of the CDT
I had to ask what some of his most frequent questions are and he told me: Why don’t you put the maps up for download? Do you have a GPS track? Are you still doing this? Regarding GPS, he has said several times, and notes on his website, that a GPS is not a mandatory item on the CDT. Jonathan’s thoughts about GPS are that “plenty of people have hiked the CDT without one and had no problems. If you’re not a great navigator, a GPS can be helpful but it can also be a crutch, that you’ll remain a poor navigator. It just depends on what you want out there.” If your’re trying to save ounces and want one less thing to charge up, he thinks you can leave the GPS behind.
I always like to ask people what makes them successful on hikes or large trips that they take, and Jonathan feels that it’s all about how you deal with adversity. You need to understand that your plans are going to change constantly, over and over again. You need to stay determined and keep the larger goal at the front of your mind. He reminds me that “there can be some really sucky days out there, but you just have to remember the big picture, and that things get better.”
What does the future hold for the CDT? He thinks it looks pretty good as far as hikers and the exposure the trail gets from those that hike it. He does see a lot of the environmental and political pressure the trail faces because it is so remote, with no large population centers near it, unlike the Appalachian Trail (AT). He believes the trail could use a “really active organization to help advocate for it. Someone who has the ear of the local landowners & government agencies to make sure the trail doesn’t get paved over or worse.” He believes that people like Jim Wolf have been great advocates for the trail for many years and he appreciates what they have done. He’s happy to see hikers forming advocacy groups such as the CDTC and hopes that “some hiker from 2013 will make the CDT their mission in life”. Who knows, maybe someone out there reading this post will heed his call.
What’s next for Jonathan? He continues his tireless effort to keep his maps updated but he also spends time taking pictures, which he learned to love while out on the CDT. He calls all of his photography equipment his ‘luxury’ items on the trail, joking that it weighs more than most people’s entire kits. When asked what he would do with 5 months of free time, he thinks of places like Nepal or a proposed trail the length of the Andes in Chile, which he thinks would be spectacular.
We all go on adventures to help us change our lives and the CDT became one of those things for Jonathan. He is the true definition of an advocate and ‘Trail Angel’ because he helps all of us who either hike the trail each year, or those of us who dream of it. I hope that I can do a fraction of what Jonathan has done for the CDT. We all owe him some gratitude for everything he has done, so please send him a note saying ‘Thank you’ because he is a true friend to all of us, especially the trail.
This is my plan for sections 6-10 which ends in Chama, NM which is my last stop before I start heading into the San Juan section of my hike. Here’s how I’m planning to hike these sections:
Section 6: Reserve to Pie Town: 39 Miles
Ley Maps 28-26-Mail Drop
This section of trail is a pretty short section to go before hitting Pie town, and is not known to be that difficult. There is decent water throughout this section with many solar wells and a couple of spots where local ranchers will let you take water directly from their spiggots. Pie town is famous mostly for one thing… you guessed it, Pie! There is very little here other than the two restaurants that serve some of the best pie in the world, according to some hikers. If the Appalachian Trail (AT) has a “½ gallon challenge,” then I think that Pie Town should have a whole pie challenge.We’ll see if I actually do that when I get there. A mail drop is pretty much mandatory here because there is no real grocery store in town other than the Top of the World store, which is 3 miles west of town and has a limited resupply selection. I will be sending to, and staying at, the Toaster House which is a very friendly hostel that accepts packages (UPS only) and has cheap accomodations. You can also call head to the Grants Visitor Center to see which windmills are operational. However, this is an old note I read from 2008, so I’m not sure whether or not it’s still valid.
Section 7: Pie town – Grants: 86 miles
Ley Maps: 26-20-Local Resupply
This seems like it will be a very cool section because it takes you through a lot of canyons and Anazasi ruins. The water supply is spotty in places with some stretches of 20+ miles if the sources you do find are not suitable to drink. The area is also known for illegal drug activity – with planes dropping bales of something for pickups waiting to haul it away. I’m sure they move their smuggling spots around so I’m not too worried, but I might think about camping ‘out of sight’ in this stretch, just in case. When I hit Grants I will be happy to stop by some wonderful Trail Angels – Hugo and Carole – who run a small B&B. They are extremely welcoming and will help you with anything you need, especially water caches for the next section. They used to allow people to stay in their home but as of this year, they are no longer doing it. Apparently an extremely rude hiker trashed the couple online about the accommodations and their help. They will still help you with everything above, but you can’t sleep at their house anymore. This just shows that you need to be nice to every person that you meet along the trail.You are just a person with a pack on your back , not some rock star, so don’t expect to get special treatment. Be thankful for every bit of help you get.
Section 8: Grants – Cuba: 111 miles
Ley Maps: 20-11- Local Resupply
This section is where you start hitting more mountainous terrain, with more ups and downs, and an option to summit Mt. Taylor. Mt. Taylor is just northeast of the town of Grants and is directly on the Ley route vs. the Bear Creek maps which goes around it. The Navajo People call it Tsoodzil, the turquoise mountain. It is one of four sacred mountains that are part of the cardinal boundaries of the Dinetah, which is the traditional Navajo homeland. As a big fan of native culture(s) I am definitely planning on hiking to the summit. These places always have a unique power and feeling to them and knowing the history you can’t help but think of days gone by and the people who had been there before you. The town of Cuba is said to be a little run down but, has all the things you need. Thru hikers report having a good experience at Del Prado Motel, as the owner is very hiker friendly. It has a laundry, comfortable beds and the owner will even loan you her laptop for the night if you want to use the free wifi. The grocery store is said to be good if you’re not too picky. You also have the option of staying at Circle A Ranch which is only a little bit past Cuba. The ranch is hiker friendly and some hikers report this being their favorite hostel along the whole trail. There is not a resupply there, but they do accept packages and you can use their full kitchen to prepare meals. If you don’t want to stay in town, this might be a good option at only $60 for one night and $30 a night for two nights.
Section 9: Cuba – Ghost Ranch: 55 miles
Ley maps 11-7- Mail drop
This section of trail goes through some good canyons with reliable water sources nearby or along the trail. The real highlight of this section is getting to Ghost Ranch which is a great spot, and not to be missed. It’s a Presbyterian retreat, but is very hiker friendly with basic amenties like showers, laundry and a cafeteria that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner at a reasonable fee. They also have a library that is open 24 hours with good wifi and outgoing mail. They will also hold packages for you at no fee as long as you clearly indicate what your arrival time is and how long they should hold the package for.
Section 10: Ghost Ranch – Chama: 80 Miles
Ley maps 7-1-Local Resupply w/ equipment mail drop.
If you want to see an intimidating-looking section of maps, this is the section. There are more notes on the Ley maps here than anywhere else. Notes such as‘trust your compass’ and ‘pay attention’ are littered throughout. There are a lot of alternatives you can use here, including some old routes, the new Bear Creek route, or even road walking the entire distance between Ghost Ranch and Chama. You can take a train from Chama to Cumbres Pass. There are a lot of forest roads, side roads, bad tread and everything in between for this section. However, I’m positive my navigation skills will be good at this point, so I hope it doesn’t matter. In Chama I plan on sending the gear that I will need for the San Juans, since they start shortly north of Chama. I plan on buying my food locally, but I will have my sister mail me a box I’ll have packed up ahead of time, including warmer clothes, ice axe (if needed), microspikes for my feet and my maps for the next few sections. I might also do a zero day here to prepare me for one of the parts of the CDT I am really looking forward to (not to mention one of the most physically demanding sections as well). I don’t think that this year will be as high of a snow year as 2011 was, but low snow still means there is snow on the ground, so I’m sure postholing will be in my future.
Wind, sand, heat, scorpions and snakes will greet me as I start the first leg of my CDT adventure in New Mexico. It’s a beautiful, yet harsh landscape, where water supplies are limited. Here’s how I’m planning my trip for the first 5 sections in New Mexico.
Starting dates/routes:
My start date is Saturday, April 20th. I will solely be using the Ley Maps and taking the Columbus vs. the Crazy Cook route. My research shows there is better water along the route and it is more scenic as well. It is also the easiest to reach and since my family is driving me down to Deming, I wanted it to be easily accessible for them as well. They will not be taking me to the actual border because honestly, I don’t think it’s safe for my sister, mom and nephew to be in that area. It’s fine for me but, not something that I’m completely comfortable with.
The ride to the border will be with Keith from Deming, NM. Keith is a long time trail angle from Deming and offers rides to the border for only $25. He will tell you exactly how to get back to Deming, alert border patrol of your presence and knows the local landscape.
Here is my plan for the first 5 sections out of 10. I’ve split them up with the help of Yogi’s CDT Handbook and various other resources:
(Mileage is my own estimates; please do your own research as well-this is also in North bound order)
Section 1- Mexican Border to Deming: 68 miles
Ley Maps Columbus 11-7 – Local Resupply
After taking some pictures and walking a couple of feet into Mexico I’ll start heading north. Now it’s time to stop dreaming, and time to start doing. My plan is to take it easy in this first section. I plan on putting in some easy miles and not get too excited. I don’t want to push it too hard, too fast, and risk an injury. I do not plan on doing anything as I walk through Columbus except maybe pop into a convenience store.
Section 2- Deming to Emory Pass ( Hwy 152) 69 miles
Ley Maps Columbus 6-3 – Hitch 40 miles to Silver city- Local Resupply
I plan on leaving a resupply box and Heet at Keith’s to keep things easy and to keep up my early momentum. This will make for a quick and easy exit out of Deming after staying the night, probably in Keith’s back yard. Hopefully take a shower and wash some clothes. Once I’m in Deming I’ll tell my sister to mail my package to Doc Campbell’s because this is a must for resupply. This gives it plenty of time to arrive and ensure it is waiting for me.
The ‘trail’ out of Deming is a mostly gravel road that hugs private property lines. I hope to avoid any problems with local ranchers. I think my biggest problem will be finding reliable water during this section, with most of it coming from cow tanks. Maybe some nice old lady will let me take water from her faucet, who knows?
Ley maps Columbus 3-1- Hitch/walk 6 miles to town- Local Resupply
From what I can tell this is an uneventful section, but fun I’m sure. The town of Mimbres is only a 6 mile walk (or hitchhike) and has a decent resupply from what I have read. I expect to get creative here with food selection. But it’s not too far to get to Doc’s where a resupply will be waiting for me.
Section 4- Hwy 35 (Mimbres) – Doc Campbell’s: 47 miles
Ley Maps NM30j, 36-34 – Mail box to Doc’s- Zero Day
This stretch will start to be a change as we start heading into the Gila’s and getting close to more exciting terrain. I’m excited for this section because I am a fan of Ancestral Pueblo or Anasazi culture. I believe that I will start to see some cliff dwellings, rock art and possibly some ancient remains.
Section 5- Doc Campbell’s to Reserve – Gila River Route: 86 miles
Ley Maps 34-28 w/ river route – Hitch 30 miles to Reserve – Local Resupply
Once at Doc Campbell’s, I plan on taking a zero day. I’m excited to look at the Gila Cliff Dwellings and all the sites in the area. I will also have a chance to lounge in the hot springs and sleep in a bed if I choose to spend the cash. Other hikers have stayed at the campground in the area for much cheaper and still have access to the hot springs. Notes for the area say to bring cash and not to skip the homemade ice cream at Doc’s. I know I won’t miss that!
When you leave Doc’s you can either take the mountain route or the river route. I am definitely taking the river route. They say you do about 85 river crossings total, but the scenery and history along the river is unbelievable. I can’t wait for this section as most say it’s finally like you’re in wilderness after walking on the roads for what seems like forever.
CouchtoCDT 